Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Route to Burgandy and Barolo part 4


Even in the dead of winter, Barolo was breathtaking. I never imagined that this area of Piedmonte could be so beautiful. It was snowing when we arrived and we knew if we waited too long to find a place to sleep we'd have the same problem as we did in France. Luckily enough, we came across the cutest bed and breakfast right in the center called La giolitta. Tired from our trip, we went straight out to the one bar open to have ourselves a happy hour drink. After a bottle of dolcetto and a plate of prosciutto and cheese, we were relaxed and incredibly happy to be back in Italy. On recommendation, and given that we didnt want to drive anymore, we headed to the only restaurant open in Barolo, Rosso Barolo. A menu that offered everything we loved and were missing in our time in Burgandy; pasta, steak, tomato sauce- its funny the things you crave when you can't get them. We ordered our first bottle a Dolcetto d'Alba 2007 by Priavino. It was like chocolate- no really, it was the smoothest, richest, warmest and by far the most interesting dolcetto I've ever drank. It went perfectly with our meal of fresh and hearty piedmonte treats like gnocchi with gorganzola sauce and rabbit stewed in a barolo. For desert we of course had to try the barolo chinatto, which went well with the chunks of chocolate we were offered, but it didn't quite hit the spot. Instead the chocolate muffin with oozing chocolate sauce in the middle did! We headed home drunk and stuffed, loving Italy so much that we opened another bottle of dolcetto we had bought at the restaurant to fill our bellies in thanks.

Before heading back home to Venice the next morning, we stopped at a vineyard recommended by our host for a tasting. The azienda of Mauro Veglio is beautifully located on a hill overlooking vineyards in every direction. After quick tour through their cantine and we sat down in front of this view to taste their wines. Nebbiolo, dolcetto, 2 barbera and 4 barolo's the richness in their wines was typical of the area, but their barbera d'alba really made me happy. The quality of these reds was some of the best and the price we paid was correct for what they offered. The owners of this vineyard we incredibly kind and proud of their product- with a good reason. They offered us another bottle a bag of nuts from the area and after our thanks and goodbyes we got into a wine filled car happy for the wonderful experience in Barolo.

Anche nel profondo inverno, Barolo e' meraviglioso. Non avrei mai pensato che questa area del Piemonte fosse cosi' bella. Stava nevicando quando siamo arrivati ed eravamo preoccupati di trovare un posto per passar la notte. Fortunatamente siamo passati davanti ad un B&b, 'La Giolitta', proprio nel cuore del comune di Barolo. Stanchi dal nostro viaggio siamo usciti immediatamente e abbiamo visitato il bar del centro, dopo una bottiglia di Dolcetto e un piatto di prosciutto crudo e formaggio eravamo di nuovo rilassati e felici di esser tornati in Italia.

Sotto suggerimento di una coppia di Barolesi, ci sono circa 700 cittadini in tutto Barolo, ci siamo avviati al ristorante Rosso Barolo l'unico in quella serata d'inverno aperto.

Un Dolcetto d'Alba 2007 di Priavino. Un gusto pieno e rotondo con profumi e sapori che ricordano il cioccolato. Era perfetto per i nostri piatti tra cui gnocchi al gorgorgonzola e spezzatino di coniglio al barolo. Per il dessert volevamo provare il barolo chinato che si sposava bene con il muffin di cioccolato. Ce ne siamo andati contenti e pieni di sapori nuovi. Arrivati al B&b abbiamo aperto un altro dolcetto brindando all'Italia e ai suoi bei borghi. Prima di far ritorno a Venezia il mattino seguente ci siamo fermati all'azienda vinicola di Mauro Veglio,a La Morra.

Dopo un breve ma intenso tour guidato dalla moglie Daniela, ci siamo poi seduti ad assaggiare i loro vini in una sala dove accolgono gli amici del buon bere.

Dalla finestra del locale dominavamo la collina con i loro vigneti imbiancati dalla neve ma quel sole che penetrava attraverso quell'enorme finestra era un balsamo per le nostre menti. Assaggiando i loro eccellenti prodotti partendo dal Dolcetto al Nebbiolo per passare ai Barbera e per finire ai Barolo.Vini essenziali che contegono il terroir della zona.I Barbera forse hanno una marcia in piu'.Comunque la qualita' dei loro vini e' assolutamente indiscutibile

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