Sunday, March 21, 2010

Route to Burgandy part 2

With a short stop over in Beaujolais- it was a ghost town in February- we arrived in the area of the Maconaise. Following the signs for Pouilly-fuisse, we curved down into a picture perfect valley covered in vines all centered around a little old town made of stone. We were surprised to find almost no one around and became a little worried when we couldnt find a place to stay for the night. We drove on to the next town, finding a modern gite owned Belgium couple. Vergisson is one of the 4 towns under then name Macon, which produce a wonderfully refreshing version of the Chardonnay. I have to say I was completely surprised- we all were, by the not heavy, buttery taste typical to this grape. The awfully cute Belgium couple told us to visit a vinyard just around the house from theirs called Domaine Saumaize, by Jacques and Nathalie- it was on of the best. He called them up for us and we headed out. They offer a variety of Macon's starting with the standard, obviously named Macon; three types of Saint-Veran: Poncetys, Le Vieilles Vignes (which were my favorite) and En Crèches; and four types of Pouilly-Fuisse: Les Courtelongs, Les Vieilles Vignes, La Roche, and the base Pouilly-fuisse. With my broken french, we discussed the terrior, the history and the wine. We left with a case of wine and in shock of the quality of wine that we found at this place. Almost a clear and brilliant yellow, with vegetable and citrus hints (more typical of a sauvignon blanc) but extremely elegant, well rounded and warm- the chardonnay shining through. Before we headed for dinner, we stopped at another vineyard- that of Domaine Delorme et Fils. Smaller with interesting and more chardonnay-like wines (although I have admit that Saumaize was clearly a more refined and delicate taste) Delmore offers a Saint-Veran and three choices of the Pouilly-Fuisse. The German woman, who owns this land, explained to us how sales have dropped over the years, due mainly to the economy, but also because the interest in Macon is dropping compared to their big brother the pinot noir or big sister the white burgandy. This is really unfortunate because the wines are like non other. The ground from this area really shows through in the wine and is constantly changing. Each year is totally different and representative of the temperature and rainfall produced during the year. Not all wines can do this and in the end its this that makes Pouilly-fuissè and Saint-Veran so special.

Con un piccolo 'pit stop' in Beaujolais-una cittadina fantasma a febbraio-siamo arrivati nel Macconaise. Segundo le tracce per Pouilly-fuissé, abbiamo curvato all'interno di una foto perfetta, una valle coperta di vigne tutto centrata attorno la città fatta di pietra, Poully-fuissé. Siamo stati sorpresi non c'era nessuno in giro ed eravamo preoccupati perchè non trovavamo nessun posto dove passar la notte. Passando al villaggio successivo mentre le luci del giorno si spegnevano pian piano alle nostre spalle siamo arrivati ad un 'gite', un B&B, di una coppia belga. Vergisson è il nome del paese ed è uno dei 4 villaggi che costituiscono Macon che produce una versione molto interessante del Chardonnay. Spesso il gusto dello Chardonnay se vinificato in purezza si presenta spesso pesante e burroso mentre questo era totalmente differente. I belgi ci hanno suggerito di visitare la cantina Domaine Saumaize di Jacques e Nathalie, uno dei migliori. Ci hanno offerto una varietà di vini interessantissima, 3 Saint-Veran: Poncetys, Le Vieilles Vignes e En Créches e 4 tipi di Pouilly Fuissé: Les Courtelongs, Les Vieilles Vignes, La Roche e il base Pouilley Fuissé. Dana con il suo francese è riuscita a farci discutere di 'terroir', di storia e di vino. Ce ne siamo andati con un box di vino e ancora 'shokkati' dalla qualità dei vini assaggiati. Colore giallo brillante con profumi vegetali, sfumature citriche simili al sauvignon blanc, ma estremamente eleganti, molto rotonde e calde al palato e qui lo chardonnay si riconosce. Prima di andare a cena ci siamo fermati in un altra cantina il Domaine Delorme et Fils. Piccola ma interessante con Chardonnay meno caratterizzati dal terroir e con prezzi leggermente inferiori per i vini base. Il terroir di questa zona si fa sentire nei vini come pochi assaggiati da me personalmente e la prova chardonnay tipicamente adottato da tutti ovunque nel mondo quindi ben presente nelle menti degli assagiatori e amanti del buon bere è una prova molto dura da realizzare da qualsiasi vignaiolo intendo differenziarsi uno dall'altro e qui signori il sole sprigiona la luce tra i grappoli.
Escargot e piccoli volatili son 'preda' di questo abbinamento.



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